I’m sure I’m going to get a message from my mum saying my
last blog-post was naughty and I should not be flashing around ‘the puppies’.
However while I’m likely to be in trouble I may as well
throw another sexual contemplation into the mix: this time about
tortoises.
Have you even wondered how tortoises, and for that matter
turtles, have sex? In the ordinary
course of life why would you wonder? But
think about it. They are both covered
with an extensive and hard shell. They
don’t look at all flexible. And the
phrase “pull your head in”, as advice one should stop speaking or make oneself
scarce, suggests tortoises and turtles are quick to withdraw. Subliminally perhaps I presumed they were
frigid; asexual; or hermaphroditic. I
knew they lay eggs because in travels I’ve seen them. Or maybe I learnt it at school. But beyond reading about Darwin and the
Galapagos, I haven’t given these animals much thought.
Well, except for the time I found a large turtle on an
island in the Pacific, turned upside down outside a beach restaurant hut with
its little legs flailing in the air like a wounded cockroach. I was as distressed to see this turtle’s
disempowerment as I was to see the sandwich board emblazoned with “Lunch
Special: Turtle Soup”. So I waited under
a nearby tree and when the guy having a smoko out the back disappeared inside,
I turned the turtle up the right way (with some difficulty ‘cause he was heavy!)
and shooed him along back down to the sea.
He’d nearly made the great escape when the guys spotted us and came
running. The turtle ran one way, I ran
the other, and as far as I know they had to change the lunch menu.
Seriously, true story.
Ever since then I’ve had a quiet kinship with ‘Free Willy’
but failed to learn more. Until, that
is, I found three pairs of tortoises mating in Athens a few days ago. The first pair were in the ruins of Hadrian’s
Library, and I think they had the sweetest relationship. The second were in the Roman Agora and though
she was definitely playing hard to get with respect to the wild thing she
seemed to like his kisses. And the third
pair were in the grounds of the Ancient Agora, behind the spectacular Temple of Hephaistos (still largely in tact from
the 5th century BC). This third
mating ritual was positively rough. He clearly
did not appreciate ‘no means no’.
My sailing buddy Emma and I felt protective of this female,
distressed even, as the male tortoise bashed into his ‘mate’ from every angle
like he was a front-row forward. She turned
every which way to avoid him, at times moving concentrically like a top, but
still he dived repeatedly for her rear.
When he caught her top end, instead of kissing or nuzzling (as the other
pairs were doing) he seemed to bite and head-bang her. No matter how far she retreated, he would not quit. It took all our powers of self-possession not
to pick her up and run away. He deserved
to be ditched.
By contrast the other pairs were gallant. A little courting accompanied by gentle
foreplay, before the male caught her off-guard and climbed on top just as any
animal would from behind. But here’s where
it got confusing. How the hell was this
position going to work? I mean don’t you
need skin on skin, soft bits on soft bits?
Hmmm.
The first time the pairs mounted, the female managed to
wriggle and push the guys away. They
seemed to be saying “not in front of the tourists darling”… or “go away I’ve
got a headache”. Or perhaps “oh for
goodness sake aren’t you tired yet?” Whatever,
two of the chaps were sufficiently evolved to bide their time with a little
more flattery and nuzzling, before attempting to climb back up again. I did admire the gal who really made him work
for it – go girl! – but when the other lass relented she seemed sanguine which
was nice.
The rough-guy tortoise in the Ancient Agora, however, bore
no such refusal. And the second he
mounted the noises began. We wondered,
or hoped, it was the female getting some enjoyment. But as their heads by then were shielded by a
bush we couldn’t be sure. On and on the
noises went – a cross between a strangled sigh and an airy pumping noise –
until we decided it was probably the man being selfish and we’d better leave
them to it.
It wasn’t until I got back to London that I discussed the question of
Tortoise Sex with my friend Grant who immediately found an interesting blog
called 'How Animals Do It'. http://howanimalsdoit.com/2011/10/23/how-turtles-do-it/
Talk about laugh. For though the blog’s video is of giant
turtles, and we observed small tortoises, the principal is the same: the guy
has a penis like a rear extendable hook, able to curve under the female’s shell
and attach with the force of a powerful suction cup. It is reproductively effective but far from pretty.
In fact the male tortoise’s penis is the purple colour of an
eggplant, longer than a digitally enhanced porn star’s old-fellar, strangely broad and more like
a weapon than a sexual tool. No wonder
the females ran away.
Also gross, but interesting, is that tortoises and turtles
have only one hole for all bodily functions – an opening used for number 1s,
numbers 2s, sex, reproduction and, wait for it, respiration under water! The name of this ‘super organ’ is the same
for males and females: a cloaca. And it
is out of the male cloaca that the penis emerges.
That’s certainly taught me something. And though I’ve never been a fan of the ‘c’
word - due to the derogatory and misogynistic slang representation of female
genitalia - I like this trans-gender and scientifically correct ‘c’ word.
I reckon, too, that you’ve got to give the male tortoise
some acknowledgement for having a cloaca which at least goes some way towards
being multi-faceted. For in most species
a bloke's sexual apparatus lags far
behind in terms of a woman’s creativity, complexity and sensual colour.
So, perhaps those female tortoises were getting their rocks
off after all?!